Launched in 2012, the Higg Index aims to help brands, retailers and manufacturers assess the sustainability of materials for use in footwear, garments and other consumer products. The SAC released an updated version of the index in August 2020.

Several leather industry bodies, including the International Council of Tanners, the International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies, the Leather and Hide Council of America, and leather’s representative body in the European Union, COTANCE, have reviewed the August update of the MSI and "have concluded that it treats leather unfairly". They have sent a joint-letter to the Sustainable Apparel Coalition to "request that it suspend leather’s MSI score pending reviews of the methodologies and data it uses".

In the letter, the Secretary of the International Council of Tanners, Dr. Kerry Senior, said the leather industry recognises the need for assessment of the environmental impacts of products. He added that the industry remains committed to dialogue with the SAC and would work with the organisation to make its assessment of leather fairer and more accurate, but he said senior representatives of the global leather sector were in no doubt that the use of “inappropriate methodologies” and “out-of-date, unrepresentative, inaccurate and incomplete data” had led to leather being burdened with a disproportionately high Higg Index score.

“This has led to a negative perception of leather that does not reflect its sustainable, circular nature. On the basis of current Higg score, manufacturers are deselecting leather in favour of fossil fuel-derived, unsustainable synthetic products. We believe that the reputation and viability of leather and leather manufacturers are being unfairly damaged by an assessment that does not reflect the true nature of leather or, indeed, the alternatives", Dr. Senior added.

In the letter the subscribers underline their concerns regarding the fact that MSI’s:
- use of old, inaccurate data;
- narrow geographical focus;
- misconceptions about the raw materials tanners use;
- reluctance to take into account the durability and longevity of leather in assessing its environmental impact.

Given the growing consciousness and awareness of consumers to the environmental problems arising from the manufacturing industry in general, and in particular in the fashion arena, the World Footwear recently published a report on How to Communicate Sustainability? A report full of useful tips and illustrative examples for all companies and brands wishing to address and communicate the sustainability initiatives.