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First black-owned shoe factory in the US launches its first sneaker

Sep 27, 2023 United States

Designer Brands and Pensole Lewis College of Business & Design have unveiled the first product to roll out from their JEMS by Pensole factory, the first Black-owned footwear factory in the US

Dubbed First JEM and designed by footwear designer Dr D’Wayne Edwards, founder of JEMS by Pensole factory and Detroit-based Pensole Lewis College of Business & Design, the sneaker is inspired by the history of Jan Ernst Matzeliger, the Black footwear leader who changed footwear manufacturing with his 1883 patent for the lasting machine.

“The First JEM celebrates Matzeliger's little-known legacy. His invention of the Lasting Machine in 1883 revolutionized the way shoes are made and is still used today. We're celebrating his legacy and embodying that same revolutionary spirit, seeking to bring opportunity to new design talent and influence the face of the footwear industry”, explained Dr. D’Wayne Edwards.

With a hand-crafted leather finish, the sneaker features the lasting machine on the sock liner, while the JEMS badge logo includes a diamond, “the most valuable gem of all” to celebrate the contributions of Matzeliger as well as “the future gems” that will roll out from JEMS by Pensole. In fact, Designer Brands and the black-owned factory plan to release future lines of athletic footwear by new brands and under-represented designers in the coming years.

“Diversity drives innovation and brings new thinking, designs and products to consumers, yet Black representation sits at less than 5% across all design industries”, commented Designer Brands President Bill Jordan. “We're excited to partner with Dr. Edwards on the JEMS by PENSOLE line. First JEM is just the beginning step in our goal to forge entrepreneurial opportunities for underrepresented footwear designers and make their vision and designs accessible to our customers at DSW stores”, he concluded.

A collection of 915 pairs has been made available for sale exclusively on DSW.com, but during the autumn, the retailer owned by Designer Brands will distribute more pairs in several of its shops in strategic markets and will also launch new colourways.

Image Credits: savoynetwork.com

United States Designer Brands DSW Footwear Sneakers